Fashion Design
a
- AbrasionThe friction or rubbing of two materials in contact with each other. Can cause a wearing away/wearing down of fibres/materials.
- Aesthetic ApproversThe individual or team responsible for approving aesthetic fit usually designers, buyers or merchandisers.
- Aesthetic FitAesthetic fit is typically owned by the designer, buyer or merchandiser and reflects how they think the garment should look or be worn. It is a most subjective element of fit intent.
- Ankle TapeA fabric tape marking the circumference and placement of the ankle on the fit form.
- Artwork PlacementPositioning or placing a graphic or artwork at a particular spot on a garment.
- AsymmetricalA term used to decribe the fact that a human body is not exactly the same if viewed side to side or front to back in terms of shape and balance.
- AVF NumberThe AVF number is unique to each individual Alvanon fit form, and this is the number that will be marked on the accessories that belong to the form, such as head, hands and feet.
b
- BlocksAn unchanging base pattern for measurements and balance.
- BMI (Body Mass Index)A weight-to-height ratio, calculated by dividing one's weight (in kilograms) by the square of one's height (in meters). Used as an indicator of obesity and underweight.
- BustThe point on a womans body measured across the fullest part of her breasts.
- Bust MarkA hash mark (line) on the fit form marking the placement of bust on the fit form.
c
- Calf MarkA hash mark (line) on the fit form marking the placement of calf on the fit form.
- Centre Back Seam (CB)A sewn seam marking the centre of the back of the fit form.
- Centre Front Seam (CF)A sewn seam marking the centre of the front of the fit form.
- Certificate of CompletionA document certifying the succesful completion of a specified course of study.
- Commercial FitCommercial fit is achieved when a brand delivers a fit intent which is both technically and aesthetically aligned to their target customers expectations.
- Core Size StandardA representation (physical or virtual) of a human body that has been designated as the standard for a brand. Core size means that the standard is at or near the middle of the size range of products that a brand sells.
- Crotch PointThe point on a human body where the top of the leg intersects the bottom of the torso, between the legs.
- CuffsThe cuff is the end part of a sleeve around the wrist area.
d
- DartsDarts are folds which narrow to a point and are sewn into fabric to provide ease and provide shape to a garment.
- DragDrag is the effect created in a garment indicating a fit issue and resulting in the fabric being pulled during fitting.
- DrapeHow a fabric falls or hangs from a person or dress form.
- DummyAn industrial tool representing a human body standard that is intended to be used as the primary common method for garment evaluation throughout the sampling and manufacturing process. Synonym for fit form or mannequin.
e
- Ease Over BodyThe difference between the garment and body measures which defines if a garment is fitted, loose or oversized.
- Essential Fit CharacteristicsFit characteristics which are defined by who the garment is intended for (consumer) and how it is intended to fit.
- Evaluating Garment FitThe process of determining how well a garment fits a body or fit form in terms of proportion, ease over body and balance.
f
- Fiberglass FormA traditional AlvaForm with a fibreglass shell and covered in two layers of cotton with an outer covering of linen. It is suited to more frequent fit sessions.
- Fit AttributeA fit characteristic or inherent part of fit, i.e. balance, proportion, construction.
- Fit BucketsDescriptions to differentiate between different amounts of ease built into a garment i.e. fitted, loose, oversized.
- Fit EvaluationThe process of determining how well a garment fits a body or fit form in terms of proportion, ease over body and balance. Also includes an evaluation of trims, construction, safety and quality standards.
- Fit FormAn industrial tool representing a human body standard that is intended to be used as the primary common method for garment evaluation throughout the sampling and manufacturing process. Synonym for mannequin, dummy.
- Fit Form EvaluationA fit evaluation performed on a fit form rather than a live model.
- Fit IntentHow a garment was designed or envisioned to fit a person in terms of silhouette and proportion.
- Fit IterationNumber of sequential samples created for fit/construction evaluation.
- Fit Model EvaluationA fit evaluation performed on a fit model rather than a fit form.
- Flat Measurement EvaluationThe process of laying a garment on a flat surface and measuring it using standard Points of Measure.
- FluctuateThe tendency of the human body to change.
- Form FeaturesThe characteristics of a particular fit form. i.e. collapsible shoulders, head, feet, etc.
- Form LandmarksPhyscial markings on a fit form marking things like the bust point, height and location of the calf, etc.
- Full Body FormAn industrial tool representing a human body standard from the neck to the feet or ankles that is intended to be used as the primary common method for garment evaluation throughout the sampling and manufacturing process. Ideal for longer garments such as dresses.
g
- Garment ApprovalThe decision made to move a garment in the product development process forward into the pre-production phase (the final stages of preparation before manufacturing).
- Garment BalanceA term used to decribe a garment hanging symmetrically left to right and front to back, with side seams and/or inseams perpendicular to the floor.
- Garment ConstructionThe overall manufacturing standard in terms of seaming, components and finish which can affect the look and quality of the garment.
- Garment FitA term used to describe a garment in terms of balance, proportion, construction, ease over body, comfort and range of movement.
- Garment ValidationThe process undertaken to assess a garment across a size range, taking into consideration fit, styling and construction details.
- Grade RulesIncrements which determine the sizing difference between a core size and bigger or smaller sizes.
- Graded SetA set of sample garments representing each size in a size range .
- Graded Size RangeA core size and set of other sizes which are either larger or smaller. Can be a set of patterns or garments or both.
- GradingApplying increments in the x and y direction to make a garment pattern either larger or smaller than the base size.
- Grading ValidationThe process of assessing whether the grade increments applied to a pattern and made into a garment replicate the fit intent of the core size.
h
- Half FormThe half body form is an industrial tool representing a portion of the body e.g. torso or bottom half only. Ideal for fitting tops or trousers, as it does not need to be lifted to put on or remove the garment.
- Hash MarkLine running perpendicular on the fit form to mark a key measurement point.
- HikingThe lifting of a garment during fitting which can indicate a fit issue relating to shaping, measurements or balance.
- HTM (How to Measure)How to Measure (HTM) is a description of exactly how teams should take a particular measurement. Each POM (Point of Measure) will have a corresponding HTM, to ensure evaluations are always done in a consistent, effective way.
i
- IncrementsUnits of measure on a fixed scale associated with sizing.
- Inseam BalanceInseam hanging perpendicular to the floor.
- IterationsThe process of repeating an activity in the fit process usually associated with samples.
j
- Jump Size FormAn industrial tool representing a human body standard that is either larger or smaller than the core size, intended to be used primarily to assess fit integrity across the size range.
- Jump Size FormsAn industrial tool representing a human body standard that is either larger or smaller than the core size, intended to be used as the primary common method for garment evaluation throughout the sampling and manufacturing process.
k
- Knee MarkA small hashmark (line) marking the circumference and placement of the knee on the fit form.
- KnitA fabric structure produced from a series of interlocking loops, designed to stretch and offer comfort in wear.
l
- LandmarkA small hashmark marking the circumference and placement of a point on the fit form.
- Linear GradesIncrements which get bigger and smaller by equal amounts throughout the same range, assuming the same body proportions for each size.
- LinenLinen is made from the fibers of the flax plant. The long fibers used in textiles are located on the outer part of the stalk, which covers a woody core. To generate the longest possible fibers, flax is either hand-harvested by pulling up the entire plant or stalks are cut very close to the root.
m
- MannequinAn industrial tool representing a human body standard that is intended to be used as the primary common method for garment evaluation throughout the sampling and manufacturing process. Synonym for fit form or dummy.
- MarkersPaper printed with garment pattern pieces used as a template for the cutting of fabric.
- Model Try-OnThe process of the live model fitting garments.
n
- Neck PinA metal pin marking the intersection of the centre of the body and the neck base.
- Nonlinear GradesIncrements which reflect the natural growth of a human body and maintain the fit intent across the size range.
p
- Pattern-MakingThe process of making a pattern.
- PegsVertical metal bars at the base of the fit form that can be inserted into the holes in the base of the legs of a fit form to hold the form upright, when fitting garments such as dresses.
- Periodically Check GradingAssessing whether the grade increments applied to a pattern and made into a garment replicate the fit intent of the core size from time to time.
- Personal FitWearing preference of the consumer which differs from individual to individual.
- Points of Measure (POM)A specific place on a garment to start and end a measurement.
- Production CycleA period of time in which multiples of a garment are produced in a factory setting.
- Proto RequestRequest for an initial sample.
- PrototypeThe initial sample made, based on a tech pack or selected from a vendor.
q
- Quality ControlReviewing finished production garments to assess whether they meet the specification contract in terms of quality, colour, measurements, etc.
s
- Sample IterationRounds of samples created for fit/construction or design evaluation.
- SeamThe point at which two pieces of fabric join in a garment.
- Sign-Off SampleThe final sample signed off during the commercialisation process.
- SilhouetteThe overall type of design and proportion of a garment.
- Size SetA core size and set of other sizes of garments.
- Size StudiesStudies which are conducted to determine the size, shape and stature of a given population of humans.
- Slack FormThe slack form is best for fitting pants as it allows more height adjustment, making it easier to evaluate pants at eye level.
- Soft Body FormThis form is made of memory foam and covered in a stretch fabric. It is more lifelike than the fibreglass form i.e. designed to simulate flesh and ideal for close fitting garments such as sportswear, skinny jeans.
- Standard Series FormA standard series form is based on either US/EU/Asia average demographics rather than customised for your particular brand and consumer.
- StatureUsually refers to the natural height of a person when standing.
- Stitches Per Inch (SPI)A unit of measure used to determine the technical specification of stitching/seaming which affects both the look and functionality of the garment.
- StylingDesign features or attributes which determine the look of garment i.e. proportion, pockets, yoke, etc.
- Suprasternal NotchThe intersection of the centre of the body and the neck base.
- Swim FormThis full torso soft form is designed specifically for fitting bras, panties/briefs and 1 and 2-pieces swimwear with a widened crotch for ease of evaluation and a specific breast material that better represent the texture of breasts than the soft form material.
t
- Tech PacksDetailed specifications including specific measurements, block references and technical details which are issued to a vendor or supplier as a guideline for sample development.
- Technical ApproverThe individual or team responsible for approving technical fit usually product developers or technicians.
- Technical FitTechnical fit determines how the garment should be made including the balance, function, sizing and comfort.
- Thigh MarkA hash mark on the fit form marking the placement of thigh at its fullest point on the fit form.
- Twill TapeA narrow fabric trim made in a diagonal herringbone weave.
v
- VBID NumberVBID stands for Virtual Body IDentification Number. It is the model number for the physical and virtual Alva fit forms that are created from a single unique 3D file. The information contained in the number is a 3 letter client code, gender, size, and month & year that the file was created.
- VendorsFactories, producers or suppliers of garments.
w
- Wearing PreferenceHow the customer prefers to wear the garment which can be determined by choice, function or culture.
y
- YieldThe amount of fabric required to make a garment. Can also be described as consumption and is expressed in metres or yards.